Little hand on the minutes and big hand on the hour guns along the walls. Just glints of silver shining here and there as the light caught what was up there. There are four floors to this museum and as we climbed the first lift of stairs we walked into what seemed like complete darkness. We were given a map of the site and told to go upstairs. We paid our entry fees and deposited my bag in a locker. Once we did we were amazed how we had managed to miss it.

It was hidden inside an impressive building which doubled up as a Tourist Information Centre. The houses were impressive and the bells rang out from the many churches we passed. It did not open until 10 so we passed the time walking up and down the major streets of Graz and even some back alleys. The carillion was not to see the birthplace of Arnold Schwarzenegger but to visit the Styrian Armoury. We also came across an accordionist who yodelled this way through his tunes. They had brought their fire engine in, they had erected a climbing wall and a marching band was playing in the street. It was busy for a Sunday but we could still amble quietly through its streets. It is the 2nd largest city in Austria but it didn't feel large and unmanageable. It is the capital of Styria and has a large university presence. So what of Graz then? It hadn't been on our plans this trip. The first stop was at a café where we ate cake and drank coffee whilst pouring over the map. We were later to find out when the ticket inspector got on that as it was a 24 hour ticket we had not needed to stamp it. We bought our ticket and stamped in the machine. One of the painted houses 300 metres from the campsite. As I tested the dryness of my washing my friend turned up. An hour passed by quickly and I set off in the rain for the washroom.

I tidied the van, brushed the carpets and played 4's and 3's a card game my gran had taught me. By which time my washing should be dry and theirs ready for the dryer. I started the machine off and made a date with Oz friends to meet up in an hour. 4 euros registered even though I had only put in 2. He rang for the owner who turned up minutes later and banged the cash box so hard it nearly fell off the wall. The guy in charge turned up with his keys but failed to sort the problem out. A dishcloth wrapped in ribbon for my new friends. The best showers we have been on all trip. While we waited we talked about how good the site was. Look for this if you are looking for the Armoury to sort the problem out. I left them whilst I went in search of the nice man on reception who promised to come over and try I explained that perhaps my new friends should hang on five minutes before loading their precious bedding in until I sorted out if the one and only dryer worked. I had popped my 2 euros in and nothing happened. I had washed my clothes, taken them out of the washer and struggling to get the dryer to work. They needed a washing machine as the hire van only had one set of bedding. My Australian friends told me that they had flown in to Holland three weeks ago, picked up their hired van and had meandered thi had called into Amsterdam and Koblenz, followed the river, entered Austria and had spent yesterday in Saltzburg.

I turned round to see a man and his wife carrying a huge bag of washing. The accent though was from someone from a land down under. We have not seen many Brits during our travels so it was strange hearing English spoken so naturally. Armour in the Armoury Good day - that's how the conversation in the small washroom began.

When the river runs dry armoury show